Brian Earnest tells the tale of a 1967 Mustang that came back for an encore

The “gone but not forgotten” saga of Gene Leopold’s 1967 Ford Mustang GT was almost more of a “gone and good riddance” story.

But Gene’s son Kris was determined to change the ending.

It’s not that Gene, a resident of Superior, Wis., didn’t like the hot Acapulco Blue Mustang GT he bought new back in 1967. Heck, he custom ordered it exactly the way he wanted it, and he loved driving it for the first five years of the car’s life.

But when Kris wanted to play detective and determine if the car still existed many years later­ — and maybe see if he and his dad could somehow get it back — Gene wasn’t so sure.

John Norris takes us across the pond for the ‘Haynes Classic’ car show

In the world of motor enthusiasts, the name John Haynes looms large and is instantly recognizable among vehicle owners. A life-long motor enthusiast himself, he founded the internationally recognized Haynes Motor Museum in the U.K. in 1984, some 20 years after he had founded a publishing empire which printed easy-to-follow, do-it-yourself maintenance manuals for vehicle owners. John sadly passed away in February 2019 at age 80, leaving the museum which bears his name as one strand of his legacy in the small Somerset village of Sparkford in southwest England.

David Temple talks Motorama dream car Skylark

Buick turned 50 years old in 1953 and celebrated its birthday in style. The company delayed the release of its new V-8 until this model year, improved the Dynaflow (which some had called “Dyna-slush”), updated its B- and C-body cars for the final time in that styling cycle and released the new Skylark, a sporty-looking, limited-production, factory-customized model.

Old Cars reports on the best ‘Barn Finds’ from MCAN 2025

MCACN’s Barn Finds and Hidden Gems display of forlorn muscle cars is just as popular as the much larger display of restored and beautifully preserved muscle cars that share the floor of the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center. Here, in the barn finds display, gear heads can live out the dream of discovery and ponder the potential of about two dozen desirable but deteriorated muscle cars, from Shelby and Boss Mustangs to Hemi MoPars and big-displacement cars from “The General.” 

Al Rogers unearths the hidden history of a special 1970 Olds 4-4-2

On May 30, 1970, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway came alive for the annual 500-mile race with racing legend Rodger Ward behind the wheel of a muscular 1970 Oldsmobile 4-4-2, that year’s official Indy Pace Car. Ward paced a formidable lineup of race car drivers including Mario Andretti, Mark Donohue, A.J. Foyt, Dan Gurney and Al Unser, Sr. When the checkered flag dropped after 500 miles, Unser had claimed victory driving the Johnny Lightning Special.

As part of the post-race celebrations, Unser took a victory lap in the Indy Pace Car for all the spectators to see. He was met with the cheers of the hundreds of thousands of people at the speedway echoing across the race track. Unser forever became a part of Indianapolis Motor Speedway history with his win, as did the pace car that carried him.

More than 30 years after millions of people watched Unser’s post-win procession on their televisions at home and in-person at the track, the once-famous 1970 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 Indy Pace Car was left to decay in Michigan. 

David Burrows coverage of the Studebaker and Avanti dual meet

The 61st Annual Studebaker Driver’s Club (SDC) and the Avanti Owner’s Association International (AOAI) completed their joint meet at Meadowlands, Pa., near Pittsburgh, Sept. 16-20. Members of both clubs had been asking for renewal of a joint meeting with a full sharing of events, joint meetings and activities. It was two years in the planning with many of the activities finally taking place at the Washington County Fairgrounds, close to the host hotel.

Gregg Merksamer talks ‘Hearsemania 2025’

The 2025 “Hearsemania,” held in Lima, Ohio, from June 13-15, proved a truly epic experience marking the centennial of the Superior Coach Co. entering the hearse- and ambulance-building business. The firm was originally founded in 1923 to manufacture bus bodies for locally made Garford Motor Truck chassis.

AngeloVan Bogart talks about a fine 1933 Graham Blue Streak

Amid the depths of the Great Depression, Graham was on top with the most modern-looking American car in 1932. When the little-changed 1933 models returned to the streets in 1933, Graham could boast it had “the most imitated car.” 

Gregg Merksamer highlights some ‘weathered wheels’

Weathered Wheels has long been one of the most popular departments in Old Cars, and we’ve had a lot of folks contribute over the years. Ron Kowalke, Steve Isola, Ken Lorek and Coy Thomas have all shared dozens, even hundreds, of images with us over the years.

We simply can’t get enough cool “yard art” photos, and we know a lot of our readers share our affinity for colorful, rusty iron.

These articles and a whole lot more can be found inside the January 1, 2026, issue of Old Cars.

Not a subscriber? Now is the time to find out what old car lovers have been loving since 1971.

CLICK HERE TO SUBSCRIBE TO OLD CARS TODAY!

Ever wonder what your classic ride is worth? Old Cars Price Guide is now online! Check it out and join to get the unbiased and real-world pricing on classic cars. You get pricing anytime, anyplace on your phone, tablet or computer.

CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT MORE

The post A sneak peek of what’s inside Old Cars’ January 1, 2026, issue! appeared first on Old Cars Weekly.

Many hobbyists are often asked where they acquired their restored car or truck. These days, the public usually assumes that old cars are purchased in beautifully restored condition from ritzy auctions for neck-spinning prices. However, auction transactions only represent a small percentage of sales, and often cars were purchased in derelict condition by the owner and restored, and thus have their own interesting tales and adventurous stories about how the treasure was transported home and the trials of the restoration.

While some collectors do buy their vehicles from auctions, most vintage vehicles come into our hands from private sources. We become aware of them through ads in this magazine or other publications, on internet sites, by word of mouth or at shows. 

Sometimes, we simply spot a vehicle in someone’s driveway or out in a field, and often when we’re not looking for one. These are generically called “barn finds” that often have interesting tales of discovery. 

Most barn finds need to be towed or trailered home, but a few can actually be driven home after fairly simple preparation. And whatever project may need to be towed or trailered may instead be made drivable with some relatively minimal effort once at home. That’s what this article is about.

After the discovery 

The adventure usually begins after the vehicle has been purchased. In many cases, the vehicle’s new owner has been told by the farmer/rancher/miner/logger, “She was runnin’ when we parked her 20 years ago.” What often happens is the new owner decides that instead of renting or borrowing a tow bar or trailer, they are going drive the vehicle home.

I have done this many times, often from the desert or bush. Usually, it was because I lacked the funds or equipment to either trailer or tow the vehicle. For many people, there’s really no necessity to try to drive a barn find home — but there’s usually no necessity to climb a mountain, either.

While every situation has been a little different for me, there are also similarities, especially in the stories of others who’ve driven barn finds home — or tried. The same mistakes are often made. 

A lot of time may be wasted by not doing things in a logical order when it comes to inspecting a barn find, getting it started and making it mobile. In some cases, a vehicle simply can’t be driven — and shouldn’t be. The sooner you find this out — preferably on the same day you make the purchase — the less time you will waste trying to do the impossible.

For example, a guy once told me of spending an entire day dismounting all 10 wheels of a barn find M35 military vehicle. He hauled the tires two at a time in his car to the nearest town to air them up, only to discover at sunset that the truck’s engine was seized! Someone else told me of a day spent firing up a 4×4 truck only to discover the truck was missing its transfer case!

Inspect what you bought

The only reason such embarrassments occur is because people don’t take the time to thoroughly check out a vehicle before they try to start it and drive it home. Usually, the vehicle’s former owner was telling the truth: The vehicle had been running when parked. What he might fail to tell you, however, is that parts were removed over the years. In other cases, parts may have been stolen, or “borrowed” by friends or family members.

There are only a few basic things that need to be checked to determine if there’s at least a chance that a barn find can be started and driven. First, it should be obvious that no vehicle is going anywhere under its own power if its engine is seized. If you have jumper cables, it’s a simple matter to try the starter on vehicles with 6- or 12-volt electrical systems to see if the engine is free. Be sure to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank so the engine doesn’t start on old fuel that may damage the fuel system.

However, on most vehicles, you can put the transmission in neutral, grab the fan, push down on the fan belt with one hand to keep it tight, and turn the engine enough to see if it’s free. A hefty screwdriver or small pry bar on the flywheel teeth will also serve to turn the engine. If it’s free, and you trust the former owner’s word that it was indeed running when parked, there is usually a chance it can be started.

Even if it seems to be stuck, there are ways to break an engine free, if, as is sometimes the case, its piston rings are just lightly rusted to the cylinder walls. Still, I’ve only had about a 50/50 success rate of freeing frozen engines in the field. So, plan for the towing/trailering options if the engine is stuck.

On the other hand, if a vehicle’s engine can be turned over, the next step is to make sure that all the major and minor components required for self-propelled mobility remain present and connected.

Besides the large and obvious — does the vehicle still have its transmission, transfer-case, drive shaft, axle shafts, differential third-members and steering system — determine whether the steering wheel at least tries to turn the front wheels — even if the tires are flat or sunk in the ground.

The vehicle’s hydraulic brakes probably won’t work, but hopefully that’s only due to loss of fluid. For the moment, though, make sure that the brake and clutch pedals are operational. Also check for an accelerator linkage return spring along with a spring or springs for the parking brake system. If any of these are missing or are so badly rusted they may break, take measurements and buy new ones before you return. Be prepared to replace brake cylinders, including the master cylinder.

Even if the clutch pedal works, it’s possible that the clutch disk is rusted to the flywheel and/or pressure plate. Many people don’t discover this until after they get an engine running. 

A simple way to check if the clutch disk is stuck is to put the manual transmission in gear, push the clutch pedal down (either have someone hold it down or block it down with a stick, if working alone), then turn then engine over by hand or with the starter. If the clutch has released, you’ll be able to turn the engine. If not, either the engine won’t turn, or it will try to move the vehicle when turned over. A rusted clutch disk can sometimes be freed in the field. We’ll get to that later.

Now you have ascertained that the engine will at least turn over, the clutch is operational, and the vehicle has all its mobility components, don’t just dust off your hands and walk away planning to return and drive your barn find home next Saturday after a few hours of tinkering. If you leave now, you may be spending next Saturday amusing the clerks at the nearest auto parts store. 

It is a wise time to fill the vehicle’s radiator with water. A leaky or damaged radiator or rotten or missing radiator hoses should be instantly apparent. After filling the cooling system, look for leaking soft plugs or external cracks in the engine block. 

Freeze cracks in an engine block are almost always located at the bottom of the water jacket and run horizontally. If such cracks are discovered, they are not necessarily a reason to abandon your field resurrection. Various products, such as K.W. Block Sealer, can temporarily seal engine block cracks, even major ones. You may still be able to drive the vehicle home, though you will probably have to get another engine, or at least a block, later on.

Internal cracks in an engine block or cylinder head(s) are harder to find because they leak into the cylinders or oil pan. Unless you expect freezing temperatures, leave the cooling system full of water and check the oil level on the dipstick. If, after you return, the radiator is low and there’s been a rise in the oil level, there is probably either a leaking head gasket or internal cracks in the engine block and/or cylinder head(s). An oil change and a block sealer product may still enable you to drive the vehicle home, though you should strongly consider towing or trailering options.

The condition of a vehicle’s tires is of obvious importance if you hope to drive it any distance. In many cases, when a vehicle has been sitting for years, one or more of its tires will be flat, and there is seldom a spare. Even if the tires still hold air, check them carefully for deep cuts, serious weathering and age cracks. Check the age of the tires using the date code on the sidewall; tires older than six years old should not be considered safe. 

You may be fooled when dealing with ancient tires that are completely flat and/or look as if they couldn’t roll ten feet without falling to pieces. Sometimes, they will hold up well enough to load the vehicle onto a trailer.

If the tires are safe, make sure you have at least one spare wheel and tire. If one or more tires are completely flat, check for missing valve cores… another item often missing on barn finds. There are inexpensive electric tire pumps available at most auto parts stores, along with aerosol can tire inflators, which may save you the trouble of dismounting wheels and hauling them “into town” for air. A pump may also come in handy if a tire goes flat while driving the vehicle home.

After checking the condition of the tires and making appropriate plans in that department, examine the engine again. Make sure it has everything it needs to start up and run. For example, does it have all its spark plugs and are they intact? What about the spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil?

Write down the distributor number or take note of its make and model so you can bring back new tune-up parts. Even better, remove the distributor (after marking its position) and take it home to clean and tune-up before you return. You may also want to buy a new coil, spark plugs and wires. Check that the vehicle has battery cables (another often “borrowed” item).

Again, check the radiator hoses and fan belts. Even if the hoses didn’t leak when you filled the cooling system, you may want to replace them before taking to the road. Old hoses are like old tires — there is no reliable way to judge how long they might hold together. The same applies to aged fan and accessory belts. Just like spark plugs and ignition components, you’ll have to replace them anyway, so why not now when you obviously need them? 

Other things to check are flexible brake lines, fuel system hoses and lines to the oil filter and oil pressure gauge; also, air or vacuum hoses. Check the choke cable to see if it’s rusted solid. You will probably need a working choke to start the vehicle. If you don’t think the cable can be freed, take measurements for a replacement. Likewise, check the throttle cable, if the vehicle has a hand throttle. Hand throttles are handy — no pun intended. 

Check that the vehicle still has an exhaust system, including a muffler. Check that the fuel tank hasn’t rusted out. If it’s still partly full of fuel, bring back suitable containers in which to dispose of it. 

The same applies to the engine oil, which you will want to change before trying to drive the vehicle home. You may also want to remove and clean the oil pan, and will then need a new gasket, plus sealer. Also make note of the oil filter type. 

You can usually perform all these inspections in an hour or two. You may be very glad you did.

Fetching the vehicle

What sort of things should you bring when you return to start up your barn find? Besides a good tool set and any parts you’ve decided you need, you should have a good battery, or batteries, of the proper size and voltage. Bring a suitable towing chain or rope, and hopefully a chase vehicle that’s large and powerful enough to tow your new treasure if it breaks down. You should have jumper cables, extra primary wire, electrical tape and containers of fuel and water. If the vehicle has hydraulic brakes, bring at least a quart of brake fluid.

Here are some other things to consider: It isn’t wise to attempt to drive a vehicle that’s been sitting for years with the oil that is now in its crankcase. The oil is likely contaminated with water from condensation — at a minimum. 

For the engines of most vintage vehicles, buy 30-weight oil. In fact, buy several quarts more than that particular engine takes. The reason for bringing extra oil is you may break an oil line along the way or the engine may be a “petroleum princess.” You should also have a new oil filter element. 

Bring at least ten feet of either 5/16- or 3/8-inch fuel hose, with appropriate clamps, plus one or two in-line fuel filters and an aftermarket electric fuel pump. It’s probable you may have to bypass parts of the fuel system between the tank and the fuel pump and/or the fuel pump and carburetor, if you’re able to use the fuel tank (which should have fresh fuel in it). It’s also possible that the fuel pump may fail on the road, and if you don’t have an electric fuel pump, you may have to rig up a gravity-feed system with a jerry can. Or, the vehicle’s fuel tank may leak and you’ll need the jerry can connected to the fuel pump. Even if the fuel system is operational, it would be wise to install an in-line filter. 

Also bring rolls of bailing wire and duct tape. Gasket paper can also come in handy, along with gasket sealer, though you can use just about any kind of thick paper to make a gasket.

Bring an oil squirt can for linkages, choke cables, etc. Unless you have only a few miles to travel, bring a grease gun, several tubes of grease and enough gear oil for a complete change in the vehicle’s transmission and differential. 90 weight gear oil is suitable, even though the spur-gear transmissions of some older vehicles should have 140 weight oil for normal use. 

Don’t forget about the law

Depending upon the type of vehicle, its condition and location, and the distance and terrain it has to travel, other items should come to mind. As far as legality, some states issue or sell permits to drive an unlicensed vehicle from one place of storage to another. Unless your proposed trip is to be made on rural back roads or across open desert, it would be smart to plan on encountering the law. 

What about insurance? Some policies cover the acquisition of a new vehicle for a limited time. Check with your agent or company. Buying extra liability coverage could be well worth the expense if your barn find’s brakes fail and you rear-end a brand new Ferrari. If possible, make your journey by daylight, and start in the morning to give yourself plenty of time. 

The day to get it

Anyway, you’ve arrived in the morning with all the tools and parts you think you’ll need, including a helpful and enthusiastic companion. There sits your barn find — though maybe not actually in a barn — looking twice as battered and rusty as you remembered.

You might as well get down with the fact that, no matter what its former owner said, there was a reason why it was parked and you’ll either discover it now, or when you try to drive it. 

No doubt your new treasure would look more impressive with air in all of its tires and the weeds or cactus cleared away, but the first thing you should get to is the heart of the matter. Will the engine run? 

If it was free to begin with and hasn’t acquired another gallon of “oil” since you filled the radiator, you can skip the next paragraph. However, if the engine was stuck, here’s my 50/50 success method of getting it loose in the field:

If the spark plugs are located in wells, such as on most L-head engines, clean out all the dirt and debris so it doesn’t fall into the cylinders before removing the spark plugs. Remove all the spark plugs and fill each cylinder with brake fluid. Of all the preparations ever advised to free frozen engines, I’ve found that ordinary brake fluid works best. 

Trying to turn a stuck engine with the starter may damage the starter. A good, stout screwdriver or pry bar applied to the flywheel teeth has more turning force than most starters. 

With the cylinders full of brake fluid, put the transmission in neutral, get underneath the vehicle and try to turn the engine. If it moves even a little, keep rocking it from one direction to the other with your screwdriver or bar. 

Chances are good that it will gradually turn a little farther in each direction until finally you get a complete revolution. Turn it over a few more times, then hook up the battery and turn it over a dozen times with the starter to blow the brake fluid out of the cylinders and loosen things up. Beware that the brake fluid will spout or spray from the spark plug holes: don’t let it get in your eyes, and be sure to warn your companion. Brake fluid can also strip paint, so do whatever it takes to control the spray.

Clean and replace the spark plugs, or install new ones, after checking for the correct gap. Obviously, we don’t have the space in this article to go into detail about checking out the fuel and ignition systems step by step. 

Fire it up

Follow these procedures in the suggested order and you should save a lot of time. About all I can add in regard to your present situation is to check the carburetor to make sure it isn’t heavily varnished or badly corroded inside, and the float and needle valve are free and operational. Use your oil squirt can to lubricate all the carburetor, accelerator, choke and throttle linkages. Make sure the return spring closes the carburetor butterfly. You don’t want the engine to rev out of control. 

When you have spark at the spark plugs and clean, fresh fuel being delivered to the carburetor, you’re just about ready to attempt a start up. But first, drain the old oil and put in the new. Also change the oil filter if you came prepared to do that. 

Make sure the cooling system is full of water. If the starter, generator or distributor have oil cups, fill them. If the water pump has a lube fitting, grease it. Make sure the fan and accessory belts are tight. 

Next, examine the exhaust system. That old engine is going to blow a lot of red-hot rust flakes out of the pipe. If the vehicle is sitting in a field of dry grass, it would be wise to determine where the exhaust is going to come out and clear the area of flammables. It is also possible there’s a rat’s nest up the exhaust pipe or inside the muffler. 

Of course you have a fire extinguisher and extra water? I once had a World War II half-ton Dodge pickup set what was left of its bed-boards on fire because of hot rust flakes blown out the exhaust pipe. It makes an amusing story now, but it wasn’t funny at the time to be driving a vehicle with a bonfire in back. Also, clean the engine exhaust manifold of any leaves or flammable debris.

Just prior to startup, pour a thimbleful of gas down the carburetor. Beware that if the engine backfires, it may blow flame from the carburetor throat. Keep your face away and your fire extinguisher handy! Likewise, warn your companion. 

When the engine starts, do not rev it any higher than is necessary to keep it running. The oil has long since drained out of all the bearings and internal parts. You want to give the engine lots of gentle time to pick up and circulate the new oil.

If the reason the vehicle was parked was a loose connecting rod or a broken piston, you’ll find that out soon enough without blowing it out through the block and destroying your chance of rebuilding the engine by over-revving it now. As soon as the engine can be idled without your attention at the carburetor, hop into the passenger compartment and make sure there is oil pressure indicated by the gauge. If you have a companion, he or she should have already been instructed to watch the gauge. 

If the gauge doesn’t register, shut off the engine and determine why. A line could be broken to the gauge or oil filter, or an oil gallery fitting or plug may be missing and oil is spurting out somewhere. If you suspect the gauge itself is bad, loosen a fitting somewhere on its supply line and restart the engine. If oil squirts out, then you know there is pressure in the engine and the gauge doesn’t work. 

If you do have oil pressure, check the water level in the radiator and top off if necessary. Some vehicle cooling systems can’t be filled all the way if the engine isn’t running or the thermostat isn’t open. Also look for bubbles in the radiator, which could indicate a leaking head gasket. 

If everything seems OK, let the engine warm up. If the generator is charging, as indicated by the ammeter or voltmeter, that’s a plus. If not, sometimes a few light taps with a screwdriver on the voltage regulator will make it start charging. 

Check that the temperature gauge is working. If so, it should start rising. However, if it keeps on rising and the radiator begins to boil, the thermostat is probably stuck. You will have to remove or replace it to drive the vehicle home. 

If the engine temperature stabilizes in a normal range — usually somewhere between 160 and 190 degrees, or midway up the gauge dial — step on the brake pedal to determine if there is pressure in the hydraulic brake lines. Hopefully, you can get the vehicle’s brakes working by simply adding new fluid and bleeding them. I assume that anyone attempting a field resurrection project would be familiar with basic hydraulic brake systems and how to bleed them. If you aren’t, you may want to watch a YouTube video or two before attempting to bleed them.

If the vehicle has functioning brakes, try to shift into gear. If the clutch disk is free, you will now know.

Shift into first or reverse and, even if the tires are flat or sunk in the dirt, check if the vehicle tries to move. If the transmission grinds when you try to shift into gear, the clutch disk is probably rusted to the flywheel and/or pressure plate. Sometimes it can be broken loose by shutting off the engine, shifting into high gear, and holding the clutch pedal down while trying to restart the engine. If that doesn’t work, try having your companion hold the clutch pedal down (or block it down with a stick), then get under the vehicle to see if you can loosen the disk with a broad-bladed screwdriver or large knife. Try not to damage the clutch facing material. 

If that procedure doesn’t work or can’t be attempted because you can’t reach the clutch disk, about the only other thing that can be done in the field is to tow the vehicle a few hundred feet with the transmission in high gear and the clutch pedal held down. 

If the clutch does work and the vehicle seems to want to move, or if you’re going to try to tow the vehicle to free the clutch, now is the time to attend to the tires. (You haven’t wasted time on them, because you’ve done things in a logical order, first getting the engine started, and then finding out of the vehicle will stop and move.) Air up or change the tires — whatever it takes to get the vehicle safely rolling. 

If you’re working in a flat area with a manual-transmission vehicle, you probably won’t need the parking brake yet. However, if you’re on a hillside, you’ll want to get the parking brake working as soon as the tires are fit to roll. It’s possible that the parking brake is rusted in the “on” position. If so, deal with that now. 

I have driven many old vehicles home with only the parking brake to stop them. That was back in my careless days, though, and I don’t recommend you do the same.

On the road

You should now be able to drive the vehicle clear of the poison ivy or jumping cactus. Before taking off for home, again check the levels in the transmission, engine and cooling system. 

If sunset is near, it might be wiser to come back tomorrow, or next week, rather than risk a journey at night with an unknown lighting and electrical system.

Once on the road, take it slow and easy. Gear down on upgrades and don’t lug or high-rev the engine of a manual-transmission vehicle. Stop to check the tires and wheel bearings frequently (put your hand on the wheel hubs to see if they’re getting hot). Keep a close watch on the engine temperature and oil pressure gauges. 

Even if you get home with no problems, you’ll still have an interesting tale to tell. Your story will probably help other folks who may stumble across a barn find of their own.

Looking for more maintenance tips? Here are a few more articles for your reading enjoyment.

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/old-cars-restoration-bedding-your-brakes-rehab

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/automatic-transmission-fluid-rehab

https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/new-oil-and-old-cars-whats-the-smart-thing-to-do-rehab

If you like stories like these and other classic car features, check out Old Cars magazine. CLICK HERE to subscribe.

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With a rotating set of themes, there’s always one constant at the Muscle Car And Corvette Nationals in Rosemont, Ill., each November — a wildly diverse display of forlorn muscle car treasures. Since the display changes each year as previous participants get restored and new muscle cars are unearthed, there’s always a new selection of off-the-hook performance machines to ponder.

The Barn Finds & Hidden Gems display returns year after year because it’s also a spectator fave; once the doors open to the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center each morning for MCACN, the Barn Finds & Hidden Gems display fills to the gills with guys and gals who see the potential and dream of discovering their own hidden pavement pounders from the past. Until they — and potentially you — uncover that next dream machine, we present this survey of the newly discovered dream muscle machines of MCACN this past Nov. 18-19. 

Looking for more inspiration? We also included some of the finished gems from the show floor.

To see freshly uncovered muscle car gold at next year’s MCACN, mark your calendar for Nov. 23-24 and get the full lowdown at mcacn.com. 

And now for the finished gems

If you like stories like these and other classic car features, check out Old Cars magazine. CLICK HERE to subscribe.

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There’s just something dreamy about barn finds. They represent the dream of discovery, the idea of affordably buying a valuable car and the prospect of reviving an old vehicle with your own hands, mind and checkbook. Unrestored-original barn finds often retain the workmanship of the first hands to bolt on the fenders at the Hamtramck Assembly line, that torqued the head bolts in Kenosha or applied the Yenko stripes in Canonsburg. Studying Mother Nature’s touch to a barn find’s weathered surfaces is a study in art itself; many enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike have found themselves gazing at patterns of surface rust, bubbled paint and split vinyl on a dilapidated old car.

All of that and more is why the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals’ (MCACN) “Barn Finds & Hidden Gems” display is so popular year after year with crowds around each car, studying their flaws and features while dreaming.

This year, there were more than a dozen muscle cars in the MCACN Barn Finds & Hidden Gems display. The incredible assembly of muscle cars “in repose” was staggering and proved they’re still out there, waiting to be discovered, and with that, leaving spectators to dream about finding their own barn find one day.

The following shows most of those “barn finds” and uncovered “hidden gems” displayed at this year’s MCACN.

If you like stories like these and other classic car features, check out Old Cars magazine. CLICK HERE to subscribe.

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Jim Lewis was in the car business for over 60 years until having a stroke in July 2021. Starting March 1st, bidding will begin on the first of two online auctions where over 130 Classic & Muscle Cars will be sold at NO RESERVE. Final bids will begin counting down online on March 31st.

Growing up 11 of 12 brothers and sisters, Jim hated getting rid of anything and that was especially true when it came to classic cars. If a car wasn’t going to be restored immediately, he would move it to his property. That is why there is an accumulation of over 100 cars to sell in this auction. 

While in high school, Jim got an early start in the car business by working at his brother Fred’s body shop, Lewis Body & Glass. From 1960 to 1962, he worked as a salesman and bookkeeper at the new AMC (Rambler) dealership. At the age of 23 years old, after serving 6 months active duty in the National Guard, Jim opened his own used car dealership. 

In the 1960s and 1970s, Jim was one of very few dealers in Oklahoma that sold high performance muscle and collector cars. Since the year 2000, his customer base expanded from Oklahoma and Kansas to internationally. Such countries include England, France, Spain, Poland, Germany, Holland, Norway, New Zealand, and Australia.

He is known for always having several MoPars at a time such as the 1970’s Charger, Challenger, or ‘Cuda. He loved Mustangs, which accounted for nearly half the cars he ever sold. Recently the Ford Bronco was a particular favorite. Chevrolet’s such as the Camaro, Chevelle, and Corvettes were a staple of his business. 

Jim grew up in Enid and spent his younger days riding horses. His favorite horse was named Texas Red, which he rode in the Cherokee Strip Round-Up Club. From 1953 to 1956, he won dozens of ribbons for barrel racing and being a jockey. This need for adrenaline and speed laid the foundation for his pursuit of fast cars. In the early days, Jim would spend his weekends drag racing with friends just outside the Enid city limits. Having collected dozens of drag racing winner trophies, going fast and being around fast cars was in his blood. When competing, he drove various 1955-1957 Chevy or early 1960’s Corvettes. As soon as he married and began a family, his focus shifted more on building his business. 

His passion was not so much selling cars, but what he absolutely loved was the chase and the hunt! Finding a barn find or something that no one knew about gave him more pleasure than just about anything. He lived and breathed automobiles. From the time he woke up in the morning to the time he went to bed, cars were always on his mind as he scoured the paper and internet for the next deal. Friends would often comment that they couldn’t talk to him for 2 minutes before he would tell you a story about buying or selling a car. He used his stories as allegories of life and was happy to repeat stories over and over again.

To begin bidding, go to Wiggins Auctioneers: https://wigginsauctioneers.hibid.com

For more information, visit: https://markeeautosales.com

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The post Sixty years of car collecting up for sale online: The Jim Lewis Collection appeared first on Old Cars Weekly.

On November 27th beginning at 2 pm, Tom Cotter, the author of 18 car-and racing-related books, including 10 in the “barn find” series will join the Museum “live” via Zoom from North Carolina to share his experiences driving coast-to-coast in a 1926 Model A Ford Speedster “T”. You can join Tom online via Zoom or participate in the simulcast on the big screen at the Museum.

Tom and T builder Dave Coleman drove the Speedster 3,707 miles on the Lincoln Highway (US Route 30) from New York to San Francisco. 

Tom chronicled his experiences in his new book Ford Model T Coast to Coast: A Slow Drive Across a Fast Country and now he presents the story to AACA Museum’s motoring enthusiasts. The presentation is about stories: stops, people, food, sleeping arrangements: e.g., New Jersey diners, Flight 93 Memorial, Iowa cornfields, American Pickers, the Salt Flats, Nevada Casinos getting up and over the Rockies, and more.

Join online or in person. CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT MORE.

AACA Museum
161 Museum Dr.
Hershey, 17033
717-566-7100

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The AACA Museum’s next “AACA Museum Live” event is a webcast planned for Saturday, March 20, 10 a.m. This event features Tom Cotter, the author of 17 car and racing-related books, including 10 in the “barn find” series. Tom joins us via Zoom from North Carolina. Guests can view Tom’s presentation on the “big screen” at the Museum or remotely via Zoom. Again, space is limited, and pre-registration is required.

Tom presents Cunningham history and explains how he found his Cunningham, which is powered by a 331 cubic inch industrial Hemi, and one of only four C3s produced with a manual transmission. Tom describes how he tracked the car down and documented its history, and his experiences with it in Hill Climb and Vintage sports car racing. The car is currently on display at the Museum as part of our “Hemi” exhibition.

AACA Museum, Inc.
161 Museum Drive, Hershey, PA
 717-566-7100 
The AACA Museum, Inc. has been and remains an independent 501 (c) (3) non-profit organization, not affiliated with the Antique Automobile Club of America. www.aacamuseum.org

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We might spend a lifetime, or perhaps just the better part of one, collecting old car projects for the future. If we’ve got the space, it’s pretty easy to do. Let’s say we’ve got an old car visibly out to pasture. Passersby will likely stop to inform us where others like it languish. Before we know it, they’ve multiplied and we’ve got a pasture full of old cars.

Then, later on, we just might come to realize that we’re not really going to restore them all. Way out here in Montana, that’s the situation our friend, Bill Spurzem, finds himself in today.

If you ask someone out here, Bill has been a preferred source for old cars and parts for many, many years. Now, it’s time to unload. Bill is not an online auction kind of guy, so things will be sold off bit-by-bit at a pace that he’ll be comfortable with. Before that starts to happen, it might be fun to take a peek. There’s got to be something good inside that old barn.

The barn is indeed, an old one, built by Bill’s grandfather in 1906. The barn, of course, is red. The big sky above it is blue, and the grass around it is green as you’ve ever seen. If you look hard enough, through that grass, you just might find that pasture cars in Montana don’t rust as much as you thought.

We’ll begin and end our tour in the pasture surrounding the barn. With all that we hear about “barn finds” today, our minds may quickly conjure images of what might be inside. Here, as rumor has it, the barn cars are desirable ’50s Fords, and they’re not nearly as rough as most.

Today, I’ve been handed a ring of worn keys. I’ll be your misguided guide for the first leg of the tour, ’round the grounds, and up the treacherous stretch of stairs that just might lead to treasure. Later on, once we reemerge back to ground-level safety, Bill has a special treat in store for us. He’s offered to let us in deeper, which should make for some pretty good storytelling.

So, here we go. Ahead of the crowd, let’s enjoy this insider opportunity. Welcome to Bill’s Barn.

Bill’s Barn: 406-437-1944

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When I was a kid, my dad collected 1957 Chevrolets. Us kids could spot tail fins peeking out of the grove of trees at 60mph. We’d yell with delight, “Dad! Tailfins! 57 Chevrolet!” He would spin the car around and next thing we knew, Dad would be buying the hidden treasure and bringing it home.

Who would have thought that these “car spotting” skills would come useful someday in my profession. All those miles of riding around and listening to Dad making deals on those classic Chevrolets. I absorbed all that information like a little sponge. This innate skill has made it possible to help families sell their collections. It gives me a thrill to tell them that Grandpa’s or Dad’s car is actually a treasure and not “junk.”

I have been in hundreds of barns and looked at thousands of vehicles, but last week I got butterflies in my stomach from the thrill of the find. I am working with a family in Wisconsin whose father had passed away. He hoarded antique furniture and antique luxury cars. They were all tucked away in a shed, that was to say the least, not good for them. Over the years, nasty raccoons had taken up refuge and eaten a few interiors. As luck would have it, they seemed to avoid the more valuable cars. I went there to do inventory after they were evicted. It was a hot, muggy day, and the stench of raccoon droppings was pretty dang strong.

I pulled my pickup into the clearing and there they were. I couldn’t believe it. Cadillacs were everywhere. Even coveted 1959 Cadillacs! I looked around and there were many potential projects. What are the odds of not just 1 but 2 1959 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertibles in one barn find? I was going about my business of inventorying when boom, there it was, 1 of 1690 made, a 1953 Buick Skylark convertible project. This will be the 2nd one that I will have the pleasure of selling this year. That’s awesome! The son-in-law came out and asked, “Is there anything here anyone would want?” “Absolutely,” I said. I explained what they had inherited and that we would work to get the word out. It thrills me me to help families realize “what’s in the barn” and at the same time get these wonderful cars back into action and in the hands of collectors so they can shine their chrome beauty in the sun once again. For that, I can handle the spiders and raccoon droppings.

You can now bid ONLINE ONLY for part of this amazing collection. Check the website for details. www.vanderbrinkauctions.com

If you have a collection that you’d like to sell or know what‘s in your barn, give me a call, I’d be happy to help. 605-201-7005

Yvette VanDerBrink-The Salvage Princess

VanDerBrink Auctions, LLC- Auctioneer

The post What’s in that Barn? They are still out there! appeared first on Old Cars Weekly.

The ninth annual Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals (www.mcacn.com) at the Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Ill. took place on Nov. 18-19.

Some additions this year were seminars by legendary NASCAR driver Paul Goldsmith, a new motorcycle show; 20 unveilings of fresh restorations on cars ranging from an AMC SC/Rambler to a ’71 Plymouth Sport Fury GT; and class of ’67 and class of ’72 displays that honored “anniversary” cars.

With the 50th anniversary of the GM F-body cars celebrated in 2017, the Norwood Ambassadors—who built these cars at GM’s Norwood assembly plant in Ohio—came to Chicago to tell restorers the inside facts about factory correctness (and incorrectness). Other seminars were put on by Jim Mattison of Pontiac Historic Services, author Jim Luikens and Kelsey Tires rep “Rusty Tires.”

Other notable aspects of MCACN 2017 included the expansion of the popular “Barn Finds” section to a full two rows, a display of hot Formula Firebird models, and celebrity appearances by Courtney Hansen, Jason Line, Dennis Pittsenbarger, and a bevy of automotive artists and Quarto (Motorbooks) authors.

Among the stand out cars filling the Stephens Center were a ’68 Yenko 427 Camaro, the “Hard Times” ’68 Firebird drag car, a 1963 Studebaker Hawk GT that was the Chicago Auto Show Car when new, the “Blood Money” ’71 Hemi ‘Cuda racing car, Grumpy Jenkin’s Camaro, Pete Estes only-one-built ’68 Camaro Z/28 ragtop, the last Norwood built ’87 Camaro and a prototype Bronco.

Other special cars on display included the last Buick Grand National owned by Bob Colvin and the 1970 Plymouth Barracuda four-door that MoPar restorer Dave Walden fabricated from scratch.

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